Friday 29 June 2018

Frankfurt - beginning of the 2018 Adventure


Frankfurt does not have the immediate recognition factor of a London or Paris. In fact, if you arrive by train at the Frankfurt Hbf, it has the familiar look of many large German towns, with the parking lot, taxi stand and bus terminal (along with the essential beer garden) in front of the main station exit followed by a large road and several streets of retail shopping running off into the distance.  It is only when you find your way to the top of the observation platform in the central tower that the familiar view of the bridges across the Main River (that is its name!) comes into view.

Frankfurt grows on you.  After three days we are almost sad to leave. The easy transport, the comfortable pace where people all seem to walk slowly, the many bars, cafes and restaurants which open onto the street (with a few too many smokers) for drinkers of white wine, beer and coffee.  The coffee in Frankfurt is very good.  The quality of the long black – known here as coffee – is smooth and lacking bitterness.  It is also cheap compared to Australia.

There is an interesting contrast between the low rise nature of most of the city, with three storey structures dominating the area, and the commercial edge of town with some of the most impressive 50 storey buildings around – not surprising for a financial centre.  In addition, the new building projects along Europa Allee to house many Euro institutions and offshoots, carry on the optimistic style of modern architecture.

The German approach to placing a series of museums together (think Museum Island in Berlin) is followed enthusiastically here, with a grouping of institutions along the south bank of the Main River providing endless entertainment for those so inclined.  The Stรคdel Museum is a gem.  Founded by a banker, it holds one of the most important collections and holds a host of valuable and interesting works including Rembrandt, Vermeer and Degas among many others.  It does not have the crowds of the better known European institutions and is worth a relaxed visit for at least half a day. 

There is at least one artist who thinks that the whole Adam and Eve tragedy was caused by Eve sporting red hair, and another who thought that they were Japanese.  Who is to say either was wrong?















One can’t leave Frankfurt without paying homage to its most famous son, Goethe, even if the artist thinks he has two left feet.


Among the other institutions grouped around the cluster of museums we found the Museum of Architecture which seemed to focus on regional planning rather than architecture but provided a collection of initiatives in bike access in cities – including one from Melbourne. It also featured a major display of lego buildings and a whole floor of models illustrating building over the last 5000 years.

Whatever the cultural or architectural merits of Frankfurt, the main event was the World Cup 2018 with every establishment providing at least one TV for its patrons and all expectations dashed by South Korea in the final match of the Group stage.  



Even the DB participated with progress scores on its destination displays.


A quick day visit to Wiesbaden found us at the top of an elevator driven by water from the spa. It filled up at the top and emptied at the bottom, with the difference in weight of the top and bottom cars providing the motive power.  At the top we found the most common of German institutions – a biergarten – and for me another which I have rarely seen – a war memorial to the komrads lost in WW1.


Frankfurt, the gateway to Germany, and in many ways, a very German City.

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