Bows and Flows of Angels’ Hair

  Paris 16 August

It is not unusual to start the day with a Cappuccino, even these days in Paris where coffee is slowly transforming – perhaps too slowly.  But the French always have their own interpretation of food, and even the Cappuccino is not safe from local innovation.

My Breakfast coffee

Musée des Lettres et Manuscirts

Innovation is not only reserved for the coffee.  One of the themes we are following on this trip is World War1.  The only available exhibition which we could find on that subject was “Entre les lignes et les tranchées” at the Musée des Lettres et Manuscrits.  Fortified by the Cappuccino, we walked in the weak morning sunshine down to Saint-Germain to find a small but inspiring institution. Started in 2004, it exhibits its collection of original documents and letters in 5 themes – History, the Arts, Literature, Science and Music.  In addition it has a small exhibition space which is devoted to current areas of interest, hence the exhibition on the WW1 to celebrate the centenary.  This special exhibition brought a perspective not commonly found.  There were diaries of generals, priests and ordinary soldiers; there were letters both private and official, there were photographs and three dimensional photos in a viewer from the 1920s.  Many of the letters were love letters from the trenches. Some of the official documents recorded commendations from senior officers for meritorious performance of duties including one about a young Charles de Gaulle. The three dimensional photos of the trenches were particularly memorable.

Without great expectations we dutifully investigated the permanent exhibitions only to be blown away by the content. The official cable from Eisenhower to the President of the US reporting completion of his mission to liberate Paris, original manuscripts of music written by Mozart, Hayden, Stravinsky, and many others, letters written by John Lennon, Einstein and various kings of France all laid out for close inspection.  I found it fascinating and recommend it highly.

Lennon

Einstein

Lourve

Another theme of this trip is the Renaissance because we will be spending some time cycling along the Loire Valley between Blois and Saumur.  This region was the birthplace of the Renaissance in France, and so in preparation we visited the Louvre Museum to see the works of French artists of this period. First we spent some time in the courtyard having lunch and watching the crowds around the Pyramid.  That is where the unintended theme of the trip continued to present itself: Clouds.  After some dark overcast skies yesterday setting off the Palais du Luxembourg and Notre Dame, the clouds featured again over the Louvre, reflected in the ponds and the pyramids.  Not quite angels’ hair or ice cream castles, but impressive nonetheless.

Another first at the Louvre, one of the balconies on the second floor has been opened up to host an outdoor café, which brings a new perspective to the whole courtyard.

Saint Julien le Pauvre

We spent the evening at the oldest church in Paris, Saint Julien le Pauvre listening to a performance by an opera singer.  She was past the peak of her career, but in combination with her husband the pianist, she put on quite a show.  While we were there we lit two candles – one for Yvonne and one for Betty – our respective mothers who had little in common with each other but both loved a candle.