Frankfurt does not
have the immediate recognition factor of a London or Paris. In fact, if you
arrive by train at the Frankfurt Hbf, it has the familiar look of many large
German towns, with the parking lot, taxi stand and bus terminal (along with the
essential beer garden) in front of the main station exit followed by a large
road and several streets of retail shopping running off into the distance. It is only when you find your way to the top
of the observation platform in the central tower that the familiar view of the
bridges across the Main River (that is its name!) comes into view.
Frankfurt grows on
you. After three days we are almost sad
to leave. The easy transport, the comfortable pace where people all seem to
walk slowly, the many bars, cafes and restaurants which open onto the street
(with a few too many smokers) for drinkers of white wine, beer and coffee. The coffee in Frankfurt is very good. The quality of the long black – known here as
coffee – is smooth and lacking bitterness.
It is also cheap compared to Australia.
There is an
interesting contrast between the low rise nature of most of the city, with
three storey structures dominating the area, and the commercial edge of town
with some of the most impressive 50 storey buildings around – not surprising
for a financial centre. In addition, the
new building projects along Europa Allee to house many Euro institutions and
offshoots, carry on the optimistic style of modern architecture.
The German approach to
placing a series of museums together (think Museum Island in Berlin) is
followed enthusiastically here, with a grouping of institutions along the south
bank of the Main River providing endless entertainment for those so
inclined. The Stรคdel Museum is a gem. Founded by a banker, it holds one of the most
important collections and holds a host of valuable and interesting works
including Rembrandt, Vermeer and Degas among many others. It does not have the crowds of the better
known European institutions and is worth a relaxed visit for at least half a
day.
There is at least one artist who
thinks that the whole Adam and Eve tragedy was caused by Eve sporting red hair,
and another who thought that they were Japanese. Who is to say either was wrong?
One can’t leave Frankfurt without paying homage to its most famous son, Goethe, even if the artist thinks he has two left feet.
Among the other
institutions grouped around the cluster of museums we found the Museum of
Architecture which seemed to focus on regional planning rather than
architecture but provided a collection of initiatives in bike access in cities
– including one from Melbourne. It also featured a major display of lego
buildings and a whole floor of models illustrating building over the last 5000
years.
Whatever the cultural
or architectural merits of Frankfurt, the main event was the World Cup 2018
with every establishment providing at least one TV for its patrons and all
expectations dashed by South Korea in the final match of the Group stage.
Even the DB participated with progress scores
on its destination displays.
A quick day visit to Wiesbaden found us at the top of an elevator driven by water from the spa. It filled up at
the top and emptied at the bottom, with the difference in weight of the top and
bottom cars providing the motive power.
At the top we found the most common of German institutions – a biergarten – and for me another which I have rarely seen – a war memorial to the
komrads lost in WW1.
Frankfurt, the gateway
to Germany, and in many ways, a very German City.
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