Koln / Cologne

Koln from the top of its highest building

When I first visited Koln in 1979, my objective was to see the Cathedral, climb the bell tower and take a photo of the Hohenzollern Rail Bridge.  The first thing I did in Koln was to take a photo (using one of the precious 36 slides) of the railway station as I was very impressed with the structure. 

This time, I just wanted to have a look around while on the way to Utrecht and then France. 

The first thing I did was take another photo of the railway station, and then turn around to take a photo of the extension for suburban trains.

Main Line Station

Suburban Train Station

I still like stations! 

I walked across the Hohenzollern Rail Bridge and photographed it from several angles. 

The Hohenzollern Rail Bridge

I found too many padlocks.

Saw the Cathedral but did not climb the tower. 

I had a look inside.

One of the Cathedral Stained Glass Windows

The Inevitable Candles

The Nave

And outside.

The door knocker on the front door. No one answered.

Koln has changed.  There has been considerable engineering work to separate the traffic and pedestrians resulting in a very large pedestrian area in front of the Cathedral.  The Cathedral building itself is undergoing a major renovation, whereas in 1979 there was still plenty of evidence of WW2 damage.  There is a new stadium and entertainment centre, and thousands of major and minor improvements as you would expect in 39 years.

But I still like the railway station.

Outside view of the station

Boppard – the Rhine Valley Romantic Route

Confluence of the Rhine and the Mosel Rivers

The Lady

In 2015 we used a free day in our schedule to take a ferry down the Rhine River from near Wiesbaden to Loreley – a rock in Saint Goarshausen – where there is a statue of the legendary woman who tempted sailors to their demise in this dangerous stretch of river.  

Rather than take to the water again, this time we travelled by train to Boppard which we used as a base to explore the river and its environs – the Romantic Rhine as it is known. Romantic as in the philosophy rather than Mills and Boon. 

The Location of the Adventure

The region has had a chequered history, changing hands many times over the centuries between conquerors, all of whom were keen to participate in the riches generated by the collection of tariffs for goods transported along the river.  They probably also enjoyed the wine that is produced in great volume on the surprisingly steep slopes on each side of the river.  The first settlements in St Goar were established by monasteries led by Irish monks who were happy to collect the offerings made after the river boats made it through the dangerous section of the river.  That explains the Celtic names of the non-German sounding Boppard, St Goan and other towns along this stretch of the Rhine.

Boppard is located strategically at the tightest bend on the Rhine and has sat in this position since the Romans though it was a good place to settle while going about their usual business of dominating the world.  Only some of their work remains, but what was lost in old buildings was made up for in site selection, given that many of the key features – including churches, fountains, squares and transport routes – all remain exactly where the Romans chose to put them. 

Boppard Roman Remains

A Ride on the River

We spent the first day riding back down the river – and for Dominique that was literally what she did -to see St Goar and to climb up the hill to look around the old Rheinfels Castle, which has transformed itself into a hotel.  

Rheinfels overlooking St Goar

Clock Maker

It gave us the opportunity to see the self proclaimed oldest Cuckoo Clock maker in Germany and to look down on the old City of St Goar. 

St Goar from Rheinfels Castle

From up on the hill, it becomes obvious that historically, security was a big issue, with castles on every available vantage point, and also that the Rhine, in this area at least, still serves as an important transport corridor.

One of the defensive vantage points across the river

One of the many transport boats

And the trains which run both sides of the river

12th Century Church at Spay

A bike ride (on free bikes supplied by our AirBnB hostess) up to Koblenz allowed us to stop off at Spay to see a 12^th century church with a free guided tour by a local who was intrigued by the fact that two Australians knew that Spay was a twin city with Spay in France (just down the road from Mamers – Dominique’s home town!).  

We also made our way to Koblenz to see the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers.  I was first (and last) here in 1979 at 7am on a cold December morning to see the confluence, having walked from the station between trains.  Since then they have replaced the statue on the top of the monument which was destroyed in World War 2.  Panoramas have also become possible in a hand held camera, so I now have a picture of the confluence featured in the banner photo of this post, which undoubtedly looks better in real life.

I think the statue we saw along the way was meant to be illustrative of some man verses nature romantic notion, but all I could think of is the kid calling out pick me during team selection for playground sports.

Pick Me! Pick Me!

Speaking of sports, they are many and varied in the Boppard area.  We saw two in full colour while looking for the four lakes view of the Rhine from the top of the chair lift (or armchair lift as it is in German).   We also tried our first (and last) German Bratwurst which comes with the compulsory fries; took in the reaction to the German elimination form the World Cup and found front row seats in the almost empty café showing the France Brazil game the next day.

Para Gliding - not me!

Bike Gymnastics

Food?

Still in disbelief!

If you want to see more photos I have loaded them up here.

Frankfurt - beginning of the 2018 Adventure

Frankfurt does not have the immediate recognition factor of a London or Paris. In fact, if you arrive by train at the Frankfurt Hbf, it has the familiar look of many large German towns, with the parking lot, taxi stand and bus terminal (along with the essential beer garden) in front of the main station exit followed by a large road and several streets of retail shopping running off into the distance.  It is only when you find your way to the top of the observation platform in the central tower that the familiar view of the bridges across the Main River (that is its name!) comes into view.

Frankfurt grows on you.  After three days we are almost sad to leave. The easy transport, the comfortable pace where people all seem to walk slowly, the many bars, cafes and restaurants which open onto the street (with a few too many smokers) for drinkers of white wine, beer and coffee.  The coffee in Frankfurt is very good.  The quality of the long black – known here as coffee – is smooth and lacking bitterness.  It is also cheap compared to Australia.

There is an interesting contrast between the low rise nature of most of the city, with three storey structures dominating the area, and the commercial edge of town with some of the most impressive 50 storey buildings around – not surprising for a financial centre.  In addition, the new building projects along Europa Allee to house many Euro institutions and offshoots, carry on the optimistic style of modern architecture.

The German approach to placing a series of museums together (think Museum Island in Berlin) is followed enthusiastically here, with a grouping of institutions along the south bank of the Main River providing endless entertainment for those so inclined.  The Städel Museum is a gem.  Founded by a banker, it holds one of the most important collections and holds a host of valuable and interesting works including Rembrandt, Vermeer and Degas among many others.  It does not have the crowds of the better known European institutions and is worth a relaxed visit for at least half a day. 

There is at least one artist who thinks that the whole Adam and Eve tragedy was caused by Eve sporting red hair, and another who thought that they were Japanese.  Who is to say either was wrong?

One can’t leave Frankfurt without paying homage to its most famous son, Goethe, even if the artist thinks he has two left feet.

Among the other institutions grouped around the cluster of museums we found the Museum of Architecture which seemed to focus on regional planning rather than architecture but provided a collection of initiatives in bike access in cities – including one from Melbourne. It also featured a major display of lego buildings and a whole floor of models illustrating building over the last 5000 years.

Whatever the cultural or architectural merits of Frankfurt, the main event was the World Cup 2018 with every establishment providing at least one TV for its patrons and all expectations dashed by South Korea in the final match of the Group stage.  

Even the DB participated with progress scores on its destination displays.

A quick day visit to Wiesbaden found us at the top of an elevator driven by water from the spa. It filled up at the top and emptied at the bottom, with the difference in weight of the top and bottom cars providing the motive power.  At the top we found the most common of German institutions – a biergarten – and for me another which I have rarely seen – a war memorial to the komrads lost in WW1.

Frankfurt, the gateway to Germany, and in many ways, a very German City.

The Festival of Music

The Festival of Music all over France on the summer solstice (and reportedly now in more than 130 countries but not Australia) was started by Jack Lang, the Minister for Culture in the Mitterrand Government in 1981.  The idea was to celebrate the solstice in a similar way to ancient cultures and to capture French culture at is roots.  Everywhere, the music societies, groups, individuals and choirs come out to sing or perform. The range is wide and the atmosphere is friendly and inclusive. 

  

We spent the evening in Paris walking around taking in the performances. They ranged from French popular songs of the sixties, a range of international songs performed by individuals and groups, African Drum and dancing performances and traditional French songs performed by choirs or accordion players. 

Some groups even had books of lyrics so that the crowd could join in with the fun. Dominique took up the challenge in the shadow of the Académie française

All under the watchful eye of Henry IV on his white horse. 

By midnight, after ice cream, the grounds started to look a bit tired!

All the pictures here.