Tuesday 19 March 2013

On the Road Again Germany and France 2013


It has been far too long since we set out for Europe and so a quick trip this Easter seemed to be in order.  The main focus of the trip is to attend the baptism of our grandnephew in Le Mans, but built around that are a visit to family in Mamers, a week in Berlin on the way over and, for me, two days in Chartres to have a close look at the Cathedral on the way home.
The trip to Berlin should be an eye opener. My last trip there was in 1979 when I visited for two days with the major focus of that trip being to pass through the famous Checkpoint Charlie.  Too many spy novels for my own good made that a must.  I was surprised, even shocked, by what I saw.  In particular, the extensive unrepaired damage from World War II, thirty five years after the end of hostilities, compared with the extensively rebuilt West Germany and even West Berlin.  However, the unexpected shock was the lack of advertising in the streets; nothing, not even shop windows or posters on poles.  I am happy to proclaim that I hate advertising, especially when it intrudes on TV or during my on line experience (I watch the ABC and use Adblock on line) but even I missed the life it puts into the streets which, if the East Berlin experience is an accurate guide, is completely lacking without it. 

On my last trip I also spend some considerable time looking at the Berlin Wall and peering through the fences surrounding the Brandenburg Gate.  So seeing the immense change there will be a highlight.  I guess that 34 years of life experience will also change my perspective.

In 2010 I spent a short time in Paris for business and took the opportunity provided by the weekend and the TGV to visit Rheims to really explore the cathedral. It was something I had wanted to do for a while.  I have visited many cathedrals throughout Europe.  However, a walk around shooting ten or twenty photographs, reading the tourist guide summary of what is important and moving on to the café or ice-cream shop next door seemed to miss something.  So I spent a little time researching the Rheims Cathedral before I left Australia.  I started out by trying to understand how the stability of the structure worked, and read a number of papers on physical and mathematical modelling of similar buildings.  I also found considerable material on the building process, the decoration of the building and the politics around the whole delivery of the project.  As a bonus, since Rheims is in the middle of one of the most active areas of battle in the First World War, I found some interesting material on the war, the damage to the cathedral and the restoration.  When I arrived I had plenty to explore and so I spend two full days visiting the building, inspecting the roof, the foundations, the columns, the beams, the arches and then on to the more decorative aspects of the building.  I revisited the area around the building several times over the two days, listened to the choir and organ practice and even attended Sunday mass.  I intended to record it all on this blog, but did not.  So I will try to engage in an equally comprehensive review of the Chartres Cathedral and write about them both on my return.

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